Mongolia Travel Advisory

The Mongolian unit of currency is the togrog (T), which comes in notes of T5, T10, T20, T50, T100, T500, T1000, T5000, T10.000 and T20000 (T1 notes are basically souvenirs). We used to use also T50 and T100 coins. The highest value note is worth around US$9 so when changing a lot of cash you'll be given a stack of machine-collated bills. 

Banks and exchange offices in Ulaanbaatar will change money with relative efficiency. Those in provincial centres have also gotten better, though it's still a good idea to change the bulk of your travel expenditure before leaving the capital.

Other forms of currency except US dollars aren't usually accepted, although the euro is probably second best. Cash offers the best exchange rates and you won't be paying any commission charge, but for security purposes you can also use travellers cheques and debit cards.

Moneychangers who hang around the markets may or may not be legal. They offer the best rates for US dollars and are usually safe, but the risks are obvious. Remember to change all your togrog when leaving the country as its worthless elsewhere.

The most basic Mongolian eatery is the ubiquitous guanz, or canteen. Guanz are usually found in buildings, gers and can be found in most aimag towns, all over Ulaanbaatar and along major roads where there is some traffic. They usually offer soup, stiutei tsai and either buuz or khuushuur. In the countryside, the ger-guanz is a great way to see the interior of a ger and meet a family, without the lengthy stops and traditions expected with normal visits.

In the countryside most guanz seem to close for dinner (and often lunch as well). In reality, opening hours are often at the whim of staff. The city guanz, which is a good option for budget travellers or people in a hurry, will sometimes masquerade under more alluring names, including tsainii gazar (tea house). Some of the ones on main streets now stay open 24 hours, but the usual hours are 10am to 7pm. 

The most restaurants are pretty expensive for the average Mongolian and frequented only during special occasions. Mongolians don't mind blowing an entire week's salary on a good meal, so long as they are enjoying it with friends or family.

Restaurants, usually opens 10am to 10pm daily, are nearly always more hygienic than the guanz and therefore a good choice for children and families. You will probably be assigned an overly attentive waiter or waitress who will polish your silverware to perfection and pour your drinks. In Ulaanbaatar, many restaurants - especially the good ones - will be busy and often full between about 1 pm and 2pm. It pays to get a table before 12.30pm to beat the rush.

Standard tourist visas generally last 30 days from the date of entry and you must enter Mongolia within three months of issue. Visas normally take several days, or even up to two weeks, to issue. If you want your visas quicker, possibly within 24 hours, you will have to pay an "express fee", which is double the normal cost. If you want a tourist visa for longer than 30 days you will need to arrange for a travel agency to invite you. Your sponsor will need to know your full name; date and place of birth; country of citizenship; passport number, date and place of issue and expiry date; your date of arrival and departure; and a general itinerary. They must send your invitation to the Ministry of External Relations in Ulaanbaatar. If accepted, a copy will be sent from the ministry to your designated embassy or consulate, where you fill out a visa application form and hand over your cash. Try to get a copy of your invitation if possible.

If this seems too much hassle, remember that 30-day tourist visas are easily extendible by 30 days in Ulaanbaatar. The only snag is that you'll probably have to return to the capital to do this.

Multiple entry/exit tourist visas are usually only issued to foreign residents who do a lot of travel. Mongolian honorary consulates can issue transit visas and non-extendable tourist visas but only for 14 days from the date of entry. Importantly, they often issue visas without requiring a sponsor or invitation. However, these visas are for entry only; they cannot issue normal entry/exit visas, so you will have to spend some of your precious time in Ulaanbaatar arranging an exit visa from the ministry.

If you have a 30-day tourist visa you can extend it by another 30 days. If you are lucky and can rustle up an invitation letter you can theoretically extend it by a second 30 days, but this can be difficult. For extensions, go to the Ministry of External Relations, on Enkh Taivny Orgon Choloo; it is the gray building just south of Sukhbaatar Square. The consular department, where you will have to wrestle with the visa people, is at the back (enter from the southern door). The office is open weekdays from 9.30 am to noon. 

You should apply for an extension about a week before your visa expires. It officially costs US$15 for the first seven days and a further US$2 per day for a maximum of 30 days (which therefore costs a total of US$61). You will need a passport-sized photo. It should take two or three days to process.

Every traveler must fill in a customs declaration form which should be retained until departure. This allows the free import and re-export of articles intended for personal use for duration of stay. It is prohibited to import and export. 

guns, weapons and ammunitions without special permission 

explosive items 

radioactive substance 

opium, hashish and other narcotics 

pornographic publications 

publications, records, films and drawings against Mongolia 

research materials, paleonthological and archaeological findings, collection of various plants and their seeds, birds, wild and domestic animals, wool, raw skins and hides and furs without permissions of appropriate Mongolian authorities.